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Scanners may replace fitting room (Las Vegas Review-Journal; 03/14/99) By Andrea Ahles Knight Ridder Newspapers Moving from the special effects studios of Hollywood to the local shopping mall, three-dimensional body scanners may someday replace those cold dressing rooms at department stores as designers look for ways to create better-fitting clothes. While stores aren't tearing down the fitting rooms and rushing out to buy the $500,000 body scanners just yet, clothing manufacturers, along with automotive, aerospace and defense companies, are using the technology to study a wide variety of human body shapes. The Caesar project, supported by these companies but primarily funded by the Air Force and NATO, will scan about 11,000 people over the next two years. The data will be used to create a database of three-dimensional human measurements. About 4,000 Americans at 10 different sites will be scanned, as will about 6,800 people from the Netherlands and Italy. NATO chose them because the Netherlands has the tallest population and Italy the shortest among NATO members. Traditionally, measurements were two-dimensional, taken by a tape measure. But with the advent of computer-aided design software, clothing designers and carmakers have needed three-dimensional measurements that can be manipulated by these CAD programs. "In the past, when you would take these measurements, you had no way of going back and getting additional measurements," said Gary W. Pollack, the Caesar program manager for the Society of Automotive Engineers. "Now, we're capturing the measurements electronically, and, at any time, we can get data." The project uses a 13-foot-tall, 10-foot-wide body scanner manufactured by Cyberware to scan individuals in three positions - one standing and two seated. Individuals wear gray biker shorts, with the women also wearing gray sports bras, to improve the accuracy of the scan. Each scan takes about 17 seconds. There is no known risk to being scanned repeatedly; the low-power lasers meet Food and Drug Administration safety standards. About 80 reflective dots are placed strategically on the individual for the scan. Although the lasers pick up the shape of the entire body, the dots provide specific data points that can be used by companies. The whole process, including paperwork, changing clothes, being fitted with reflective dots, etc., takes about an hour per person, Pollack said. The project already has scanned 750 people in Los Angeles; Detroit; Ames, Iowa; and Dayton, Ohio. Officials consulted university demographers to get an accurate cross-section of Americans and their shapes to scan. Kathleen Robinette, Caesar project manager for the Air Force, said the researchers also worried that some people wouldn't want to be scanned. "We thought we might have difficulty with heavier people that may be sensitive about their weight," Robinette said. "But they want to participate so they can get clothes that fit them." Indeed, a survey last year by a retail consulting firm found that most consumers would gladly step in front of a scanner if it meant getting better- fitting clothes. In the survey by Kurt Salmon Associates of Atlanta, 60 percent of respondents said they had difficulty finding clothes that fit well. Adelle Kirk, associate director of consumer marketing at KSA, said consumers were particularly interested in using body scanning to get better-fitting intimate apparel, jeans and business suits. The survey found that 66 percent said they were comfortable having their body scanned, and 59 percent said they would use a scanner. Also, 18 percent of the consumers surveyed said they would pay for body-scanning services. "There is such a `fit' crisis among American consumers," Kirk said. "There is clearly a need for better, more customized clothing." Levi Strauss & Co., a Caesar partner, has initiated a program, called Original Spin, that allows customers to design their own pair of jeans for $55. In October, the San Francisco company set up computer kiosks in some of its Original Levi's stores where a customer chooses the style, color, leg design and fly opening for a pair of jeans. A sales associate then takes physical measurements of the customer and lets the customer try on a pair of "test- drive" jeans in that style. The order is then sent to the factory and, within 10 days, the customer has a pair of jeans made to order. Consumer comfort also is an important issue for car designers. Ford Motor Co. became interested in the Caesar project as a way to help it design more comfortable car interiors. Gary Rupp, principal research engineer at Ford, said the 3-D data would help the company determine reasonable ranges of space in the driver's seat. Aerospace companies such as Boeing Co. and Lockheed Martin Corp. have relied on human measurement data to create standard airplane interiors. But most of the data are two-dimensional and not as representative of the population. Ray Duncan, Lockheed Martin's manager of crew systems, said the company has had to reconfigure some of its military aircraft because the military services have changed some of their entrance criteria over the last 40 years. For example, more women are being trained for combat roles. "We're having to accommodate smaller female pilots and larger male pilots, and they need to sit at a certain point and space to see out the window of the airplane," Duncan said. For the Air Force, the primary focus of using 3-D data is to create better- fitting flight suits and oxygen masks, Robinette said. Caesar's $6 million budget is funded primarily from the Department of Defense and NATO because the United States shares a lot of equipment with other NATO countries, some of which have shorter or taller average body types than Americans. The whole project should be completed by 2001, and the data will be made available to the 40 companies that invested in the project before being sold to other corporations.
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